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Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
A long corridor with wine bottles on both sides.
The entrance to the restaurant space of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
Map
Restaurant information
Established31 January 2011; 13 years ago (2011-01-31)
Owner(s)Heston Blumenthal
Head chefAdam Tooby-Desmond
Food typeHistorical British
Dress codeComfortable
Rating
Street addressMandarin Oriental Hyde Park,
Knightsbridge
CityLondon
Postal/ZIP CodeSW1
CountryUnited Kingdom
Coordinates51°30′08″N 0°09′36″W / 51.50222°N 0.16000°W / 51.50222; -0.16000
Seating capacity110
ReservationsYes
Other informationNearest station:
London Underground Knightsbridge
Websitemandarinoriental.com

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is a restaurant in London, England, created by Heston Blumenthal. Menu items are based on historical British dishes, which were researched by food historians and through the British Library. The restaurant's décor resembles antique British periods. Dinner's opening drew interest within the industry, and reviews have been positive. Particular dishes have received praise, including the Meat Fruit, a chicken liver mousse created to look like a mandarin orange.

Opened in January 2011, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal received one Michelin star within a year and earned its second in 2014, which it has held ever since. The British magazine Restaurant ranked the eatery on its list of the World's 50 Best Restaurants between 2011 and 2018. Dinner was initially headed by Ashley Palmer-Watts, formerly the head chef of another Blumenthal restaurant, The Fat Duck. Jon Miles-Bowring and Adam Tooby-Desmond became his successors. The restaurant has expanded internationally with franchises in Melbourne, Australia, and Dubai, United Arab Emirates.

Description

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Dinner's interior was designed by Adam Tihany and displayed full-length windows allowing diners to see straight into the kitchen. It features a pulley system based on a 16th-century design used for the British Royal Court.[1] The brand identity items, such as the logo and the menus, were designed by design agency Seymourpowell.[2] A clockwork spitroast cooks pineapples for one of the restaurant's desserts.[3]

Although named Dinner, the restaurant also serves lunch. The name is meant to signify the main meal of the day, regardless of when it is enjoyed.[1] The eatery serves dishes inspired by the 14th century and beyond.[4] Each item has been based on a historical recipe, such as the scallop dish which dates from 1826 and was published in The Cook and Housewife's Manual, written by Christian Isobel Johnstone.[5][6]

The menus themselves include details such as the year from which the menu item originates.[7] The dishes served have included scallops and peas with cucumber ketchup and bergamot-cured mackerel salad.[8] One dish that was reported in multiple reviews was the Meat Fruit, a chicken liver mousse made to look like a textured mandarin orange.[3][9] There is an ice cream trolley powered by a hand crank that mixes custard and liquid nitrogen to create ice cream at the tableside.[10]

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is located near Knightsbridge tube station, in the Central London district of the same name.[11] The dining room accommodates up to 110 customers, the dress code is comfortable, and reservations are required.[12][13][14]

History

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A rectangular menu that includes the dishes of the day and their respective costs.
A starter menu is provided in the restaurant. The dishes include the approximate year in which it was created with a symbol of circa (c.).

Blumenthal's first experience of historical cuisine was in 2000 when he discovered a recipe for roast chicken which required the bird to be plucked alive, and then cooked with a small volume of mercury.[15] This was further enhanced as he filmed Heston's Feasts for Channel 4 in 2009, in which he created a variety of feasts from different historical eras including Tudor, Medieval and Victorian.[16]

The opening of Dinner was announced in August 2010, to open in early 2011 to replace the Michelin-starred restaurant Foliage at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park.[1] The opening was originally planned for 1 December, but delays occurred, which would have resulted in the restaurant being ready to open during Christmas week.[17] The decision was made to push back the opening until after the Christmas period was over.[18] Reservations began to be accepted on 1 December 2010 for the restaurant's opening on 31 January 2011.[19] Before opening, the first three months were solidly booked.[9] Additionally, there were rumours regarding the dishes to be served at Dinner, including a report from The Guardian suggesting that an ice-cream meat pie could be on the menu.[8]

The first head chef was Ashley Palmer-Watts.[1] He had worked with Blumenthal since 1999, and for five years was head chef at Blumenthal's other restaurant, the three-Michelin-starred Fat Duck.[20] The two chefs researched historical menu choices with the help of food historian Polly Russell, curator at the British Library.[21]

In February 2014, the London restaurant was temporarily closed after several customers and employees contracted norovirus.[22][23] Palmer-Watts left the restaurant in 2019 and Jon Miles-Bowring became head chef.[24] Adam Tooby-Desmond replaced Bowring in May 2023.[25]

The first international franchise opened on 20 October 2015 at the Crown Melbourne casino in Australia.[26][27] Since 2018, there have been reports of underpayment of restaurant employees, with staff working up to 25 hours of unpaid overtime.[28] By 2020, the total amount of unpaid wages had reached A$4.5 million.[29] The Fair Work Ombudsman office initiated an investigation into the matter. The restaurant eventually closed on 14 February 2020, following the casino's decision not to renew its lease.[30] Another franchise opened at the Atlantis The Royal hotel resort in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, in May 2023.[31] In addition, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal was featured in a four-night residency at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Hong Kong later that year.[32]

Reception

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A mousse in the shape of a half mandarin orange, including a leafy stem.
Meat Fruit, a chicken liver mousse created to look like a mandarin orange, received positive reviews.

In The Independent, the chef Mark Hix said Dinner produced the best meal he had he had eaten in "at least two years". He described the meat fruit starter as "astonishing", and said it could have been seen as gimmicky, but "when it tastes that good, it's difficult to complain".[3] Tracey Macleod dined with Hix, and also praised the restaurant describing it as "no-fuss" and "direct". She also wrote that Hix remarked that the restaurant "could change the face of poncey dining".[33]

Zoe Williams for The Daily Telegraph gave the restaurant a rating of nine out of ten, saying that the meat fruit made her want to "stand up and cheer", but again said that although everything served was of the highest quality, the meal did not have a surprise like courses can sometimes have at the Fat Duck.[34] For the same newspaper, Matthew Norman described it as a "theatrical tour de force". He described the restaurant's opening as flawless and described it as the "hottest ticket in town for a very long time to come" with a rating of ten out of ten.[35]

Chef Jason Atherton said that he could not recall a comparable buzz raised by a restaurant, and that he was relieved that the opening of his Pollen Street Social restaurant was not going to take place until late March 2011, a reasonable gap after the opening of Dinner.[9] Richard Vines, whilst writing for Bloomberg, advised readers to not be put off the hype; he felt that while the courses are not as life-changing as those served at the Fat Duck, there are stand out dishes such as the meat fruit and the tipsy cake.[9] He also noted that the meat fruit was a favourite of Pierre Koffmann.[9] Jay Rayner for The Observer described the food as "seriously good", and concluded: "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal may be expensive, but it's also bloody lovely. Save up."[6]

Awards

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In the 2012 Michelin Guide, the restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star some nine months after opening—meaning "high-quality cooking, worth a stop"—, becoming one of only four restaurants in London to gain a star in that year.[36] It has also been awarded the Restaurant of the Year title by Tatler in 2011, and won the BMW Square Meal Award for Best New Restaurant.[20] The restaurant received a second Michelin star in the 2014 Michelin guide—signifying "excellent cooking, worth a detour"—, becoming Blumenthal's sixth star.[37] Since then, the restaurant has maintained its two stars as of 2024.[38]

Restaurant ranked Dinner on its World's 50 Best Restaurants lists between 2011 and 2018: at number 5 (2011 and 2014),[39][40] 7 (2013 and 2015),[41][42] 9 (2012),[43] 36 (2017),[44] and 45 (2016 and 2018).[45][46] The restaurant received four out of five rossettes by The AA motoring association.[47]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d Caswell, Mark (17 August 2010). "Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park to launch Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". Business Traveller. Archived from the original on 24 May 2018. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  2. ^ Ozler, Levent (20 February 2011). "Seymourpowell Cook Up Delectable Designs for Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". Dexigner. Archived from the original on 22 September 2011. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  3. ^ a b c Hix, Mark (3 February 2011). "Heston's new restaurant served the best food I've had in two years". The Independent. Archived from the original on 6 February 2011. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  4. ^ Hunt, Tristram (3 February 2011). "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal: a taste of the past". The Guardian. Retrieved 3 September 2024.
  5. ^ Johnstone, Christian Isobel (1826). The Cook and Housewife's Manual, by Margaret Dods. Retrieved 21 March 2021.
  6. ^ a b Rayner, Jay (27 February 2011). "Restaurant review: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 26 July 2024. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  7. ^ Fort, Matthew (2 February 2011). "Restaurant review: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 3 September 2024.
  8. ^ a b Booth, Robert (27 August 2010). "Heston Blumenthal's latest creation: ice-cream meat pie". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 26 July 2024. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  9. ^ a b c d e Vines, Richard (14 February 2011). "Heston Blumenthal's Dinner Has Top London Chefs Abuzz: Review". Bloomberg. Archived from the original on 6 May 2012. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  10. ^ "Dinner By Heston". Fine Dining Explorer. July 2014. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 3 September 2024.
  11. ^ "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". Time Out. 7 May 2019. Archived from the original on 2 December 2023. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  12. ^ "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". Frommer's. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  13. ^ "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". Andy Hayler. 3 March 2011. Archived from the original on 24 April 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  14. ^ Loyd, Hattie (6 February 2024). "All The New Michelin Stars In London For 2024". The Nudge. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  15. ^ "10 Questions: Heston Blumenthal, 45, chef, TV presenter, author". The Australian. 10 December 2011. Archived from the original on 8 March 2012. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  16. ^ Dowell, Ben (28 May 2009). "Channel 4 orders second helping of Heston Blumenthal's Feast". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  17. ^ Paskin, Becky (15 October 2010). "Blumenthal's Dinner delayed until January". Big Hospitality. Archived from the original on 8 March 2012. Retrieved 3 April 2012.
  18. ^ Savage, Gabriel (19 October 2010). "Blumenthal Delays Dinner". The Drinks Business. Archived from the original on 24 May 2018. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  19. ^ "The countdown to "Dinner" by Heston Blumenthal begins". The Independent. 24 November 2010. Archived from the original on 12 September 2011. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  20. ^ a b "About Dinner". Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. Archived from the original on 2 March 2012. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  21. ^ Russell, Polly (29 November 2013). "The history cook: frumenty". Financial Times. Archived from the original on 10 December 2022. Retrieved 24 May 2018.
  22. ^ "Heston Blumenthal's Dinner closed temporarily due to norovirus outbreak". BBC. 2 February 2014. Archived from the original on 15 August 2022. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  23. ^ Meikle, James (2 February 2014). "Heston Blumenthal's Dinner restaurant in London shut by vomit bug". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  24. ^ "Culinary art with a pinch of history". Hangar-7. 2022. Archived from the original on 19 May 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  25. ^ "Adam Tooby-Desmond promoted to head chef at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". Restaurant. 12 May 2023. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  26. ^ Cody, Gemima (21 October 2015). "First look: Dinner by Heston, Melbourne". The Sydney Morning Herald. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  27. ^ Castle, Emma (15 October 2015). "Dinner by Heston to open next week". Spice. Archived from the original on 15 August 2022. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  28. ^ Buckley, Nick (11 December 2018). "Staff Underpayments Alleged at Dinner by Heston". Broadsheet. Archived from the original on 22 November 2022. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  29. ^ Asher, Nicole (3 February 2020). "Dinner by Heston at Melbourne's Crown Casino underpaid staff by more than $4 million". ABC. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  30. ^ Frase, Ellen (10 February 2020). "Dinner by Heston Will Close at the End of the Week". Broadsheet. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  31. ^ "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is now open at Atlantis the Royal". Hotel & Gathering. 2 May 2023. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  32. ^ Paolini, Jen (9 September 2023). "London's Two-Michelin-Starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Is Coming to Hong Kong For Four Nights Only". Robb Report. Archived from the original on 5 September 2024. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  33. ^ Macleod, Tracey (12 February 2011). "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1". The Independent. Archived from the original on 3 May 2012. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  34. ^ Williams, Zoe (20 March 2011). "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London SW1, restaurant review". The Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on 5 February 2012. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  35. ^ Norman, Matthew (7 February 2011). "Dinner, London, Restaurant review". The Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on 13 March 2012. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  36. ^ "Michelin awards two stars to UK pub for first time". Reuters. 6 October 2011. Archived from the original on 5 March 2016. Retrieved 4 March 2012.
  37. ^ Marsden, Sam (26 September 2013). "Michelin Guide 2014: Heston Blumenthal awarded sixth star for London restaurant Dinner". The Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on 26 September 2013. Retrieved 26 September 2013.
  38. ^ Sources per year,
  39. ^ Slater, Nigel (18 April 2011). "World's 50 best restaurants 2011". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 18 May 2024. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  40. ^ Forbes, Paula (29 April 2014). "Here's the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2014 List". Eater. Archived from the original on 24 March 2024. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  41. ^ Forbes, Paula (29 April 2013). "World's 50 Best Restaurants 2013 List From San Pellegrino". Eater. Archived from the original on 19 January 2024. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  42. ^ Price, Laura (1 June 2015). "The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2015 in pictures". Restaurant. Archived from the original on 3 October 2023. Retrieved 4 September 2024.
  43. ^ Forbes, Paula (30 April 2012). "San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants 2012". Eater. Archived from the original on 18 January 2024. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  44. ^ Sutton, Ryan; Canavan, Hillary Dixler (5 April 2017). "The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2017: The Full List of Winners". Eater. Archived from the original on 23 February 2024. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  45. ^ Sutton, Ryan (13 June 2016). "The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2016: The Full List of Winners". Eater. Archived from the original on 26 April 2020. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  46. ^ Sutton, Ryan; Canavan, Hillary Dixler (19 June 2018). "The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2018: The Full List of Winners". Eater. Archived from the original on 15 December 2023. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  47. ^ "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal". The AA. Archived from the original on 19 May 2024. Retrieved 5 September 2024.
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