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Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga
Nepali: कञ्चनजङ्घा, romanized: Kanchanjanghā
Kangchenjunga from Pelling, Sikkim, India
Highest point
Elevation8,586 m (28,169 ft)[1]
Ranked 3rd
Prominence3,922 m (12,867 ft)[2]
Ranked 29th
Listing
Coordinates27°42′09″N 88°08′48″E / 27.70250°N 88.14667°E / 27.70250; 88.14667[2]
Geography
Kangchenjunga is located in Sikkim
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Location of Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is located in Koshi Province
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga (Koshi Province)
Kangchenjunga is located in India
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga (India)
Kangchenjunga is located in Nepal
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga (Nepal)
Map
About OpenStreetMaps
Maps: terms of use
15km
10miles
Nepal
Pakistan
India
China
Ngadi Chuli South
45
Ngadi Chuli South
Annapurna IV
Annapurna IV
Himalchuli West
Himalchuli West
Annapurna III
Annapurna III
Kangbachen Southwest
Kangbachen Southwest
Silver Crag
Silver Crag
Annapurna Fang
Annapurna Fang
Dhaulagiri IV
Dhaulagiri IV
Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)
Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)
Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)
Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)
Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu)
Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu)
Dhaulagiri III
Dhaulagiri III
Ngojumba Kang II
Ngojumba Kang II
Dhaulagiri II
Dhaulagiri II
Kamet
Kamet
Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak)
Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak)
Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)
Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)
Nanda Devi
Nanda Devi
Nuptse (Nubtse)
Nuptse (Nubtse)
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)
Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)
Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)
Kangbachen
Kangbachen
Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)
Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)
Annapurna II
Annapurna II
Gyachung Kang
Gyachung Kang
Annapurna I East (Annapurna East Peak)
Annapurna I East (Annapurna East Peak)
Manaslu East
Manaslu East
Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)
Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)
Annapurna
Annapurna
Nanga Parbat (Diamer)
Nanga Parbat (Diamer)
Manaslu (Kutang)
Manaslu (Kutang)
Dhaulagiri
9
Dhaulagiri
Cho Oyu
8
Cho Oyu
Kangchenjunga Central
7
Kangchenjunga Central
Kangchenjunga South
6
Kangchenjunga South
Makalu
5
Makalu
Yalung Kang (Kanchenjunga West)
4
Yalung Kang (Kanchenjunga West)
Lhotse
3
Lhotse
Kangchenjunga (Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā, Khangchendzonga)
2
Kangchenjunga (Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā, Khangchendzonga)
Mount Everest
1
Mount Everest
The major peaks (not mountains) above 7,500 m (24,600 ft) height in Himalayas, rank identified in Himalayas alone (not the world).[3] The map may help give context to Kangchenjunga with more detail and zooming on click through.

Legend:
1:Mount Everest2:Kangchenjunga3:Lhotse4:Yalung Kang, Kanchenjunga West5:Makalu6:Kangchenjunga South7:Kangchenjunga Central8:Cho Oyu9:Dhaulagiri10:Manaslu (Kutang)11:Nanga Parbat (Diamer) 12:Annapurna13:Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)14:Manaslu East15:Annapurna East Peak16: Gyachung Kang17:Annapurna II 18:Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)19:Kangbachen20:Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)21:Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)22:Nuptse (Nubtse)23:Nanda Devi24:Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)25:Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa)26:Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak)27:Kamet28:Dhaulagiri II29:Ngojumba Kang II30:Dhaulagiri III31:Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu)32:Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan) 33:Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)34:Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)35:Dhaulagiri IV36:Annapurna Fang37:Silver Crag38:Kangbachen Southwest39:Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum)40:Annapurna III41:Himalchuli West42:Annapurna IV43:Kula Kangri44:Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri)45:Ngadi Chuli South

 
Location of Kangchenjunga
Location
Parent rangeHimalayas
Climbing
First ascent25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition
(First winter ascent 11 January 1986 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki)[4][5]
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā and Khangchendzonga, is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas, the Kangchenjunga Himal, which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of Nepal and Sikkim state of India, with the two peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District and the other three peaks Main, Central and South directly on the border.

Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain of the world.

The Kangchenjunga is a sacred mountain in Nepal and Sikkim and was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. They stopped just short of the true summit, keeping a promise given to Tashi Namgyal, the Chogyal of the Kingdom of Sikkim, that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate. The Indian side of the mountain is off-limits to climbers. In 2016, the adjoining Khangchendzonga National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Etymology

[edit]

Kangchenjunga is the official spelling adopted by Douglas Freshfield, Alexander Mitchell Kellas and the Royal Geographical Society that gives the best indication of the Tibetan pronunciation. Freshfield referred to the spelling used by the Indian Government since the late 19th century.[6] Alternative spellings include Kanchenjunga, Khangchendzonga and Kangchendzönga.[7][8][9]

The brothers Hermann, Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit explained the local name 'Kanchinjínga' meaning "The five treasures of the high snow" as originating from the Tibetan word "gangs" pronounced [kaŋ] meaning snow, ice; "chen" pronounced [tɕen] meaning great; "mdzod" meaning treasure; "lnga" meaning five.[10] Local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal themselves to the devout when the world is in peril; the treasures comprise salt, gold, turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or ammunition, grain and medicine.[11]

Geography

[edit]
Panorama of the Kangchenjunga massif from Tiger Hill, Darjeeling

The Kangchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India and encompasses 16 peaks over 7,000 m (23,000 ft). In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kangchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur.[6][1] It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of Nepal and Sikkim state of India, with the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District,[12] and three of the five peaks, namely Main, Central and South, directly on the border.[13]

Kanchenjunga rises about 20 km (12 mi) south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about 125 km (78 mi) east-southeast of Mount Everest as the crow flies. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the 3,000–3,500 m (9,800–11,500 ft) high Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal.[14] Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga was the third-highest mountain[15] after Everest and K2 of Karakoram.[16]

Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks form a huge mountain massif.[17] The massif's five highest peaks are listed in the following table.

Name of peak Height Coordinates Prominence Nearest Higher Neighbour Location
meters Fts meters Fts
Kangchenjunga Main[2] 8,586 28,169 27°42′11″N 88°08′52″E / 27.70306°N 88.14778°E / 27.70306; 88.14778 3,922 12,867 Mount Everest – South Summit Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Yalung Kang (Kangchenjunga West)[18] 8,505 27,904 27°42′18″N 88°08′12″E / 27.70500°N 88.13667°E / 27.70500; 88.13667 135 443 Kangchenjunga Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga Central[19] 8,482 27,828 27°41′46″N 88°09′04″E / 27.69611°N 88.15111°E / 27.69611; 88.15111 32 105 Kangchenjunga South Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga South[20] 8,494 27,867 27°41′30″N 88°09′15″E / 27.69167°N 88.15417°E / 27.69167; 88.15417 119 390 Kangchenjunga Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangbachen[21] 7,903 25,928 27°42′42″N 88°06′30″E / 27.71167°N 88.10833°E / 27.71167; 88.10833 103 337 Kangchenjunga West Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga map by Garwood, 1903[6]
Southwest (Yalung) face of Kangchenjunga seen from Nepal

The main ridge of the massif runs from north-northeast to south-southwest and forms a watershed to several rivers.[17] Together with ridges running roughly from east to west they form a giant cross.[6] These ridges contain a host of peaks between 6,000 and 8,586 m (19,685 and 28,169 ft). The northern section includes Yalung Kang, Kangchenjunga Central and South, Kangbachen, Kirat Chuli and Gimmigela Chuli, and runs up to the Jongsang La. The eastern ridge in Sikkim includes Siniolchu. The southern section runs along the Nepal–Sikkim border and includes Kabru I to III.[1] This ridge extends southwards to the Singalila Ridge.[22] The western ridge culminates in the Kumbhakarna, also known as Jannu.[1]

Four main glaciers radiate from the peak, pointing roughly to the northeast, southeast, northwest and southwest. The Zemu glacier in the northeast and the Talung glacier in the southeast drain to the Teesta River; the Yalung glacier in the southwest and the Kangchen glacier in the northwest drain to the Arun and Kosi rivers.[23] The glaciers spread over the area above approximately 5,000 m (16,000 ft), and the glacialized area covers about 314 km2 (121 sq mi) in total.[24] There are 120 glaciers in the Kanchenjunga Himal, of which 17 are debris-covered. Between 1958 and 1992, more than half of 57 examined glaciers had retreated, possibly due to rising of air temperature.[25]

Kangchenjunga Main is the highest elevation of the Brahmaputra River basin, which forms part of the southeast Asian monsoon regime and is among the globally largest river basins.[26] Kangchenjunga is one of six peaks above 8,000 m (26,000 ft) located in the basin of the Kosi River, which is among the largest tributaries of the Ganges.[27] The Kangchenjunga massif forms also part of the Ganges Basin.[28]

Although it is the third highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga is only ranked 29th by topographic prominence, a measure of a mountain's independent stature. The key col for Kangchenjunga lies at a height of 4,664 metres (15,302 ft), along the watershed boundary between Arun and Brahmaputra rivers in Tibet.[29] It is, however, the fourth-most-prominent peak in the Himalayas, after Everest, and the western and eastern anchors of the Himalaya, Nanga Parbat and Namcha Barwa, respectively.[30]

Protected areas

[edit]

The Kangchenjunga landscape is a complex of three distinct ecoregions: the eastern Himalayan broad-leaved and coniferous forests, the Eastern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows and the Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands.[31] The Kangchenjunga transboundary landscape is shared by Nepal, India, Bhutan and China, and comprises 14 protected areas with a total of 6,032 km2 (2,329 sq mi):[32]

These protected areas are habitats for many globally significant plant species such as rhododendrons and orchids and many endangered flagship species such as snow leopard (Panthera uncia), Asian black bear (Ursus thibetanus), red panda (Ailurus fulgens), white-bellied musk deer (Moschus leucogaster), blood pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus) and chestnut-breasted partridge (Arborophila mandellii).[32]

Climbing routes

[edit]
Kanchenjunga-north from base camp in Nepal

There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga, three of which are in Nepal from the southwest, northwest, and northeast, and one from northeastern Sikkim in India. To date, the northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kanchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since 2000.[33]

Climbing history

[edit]
Painting of Kanchinjínga as seen from the Singalila Ridge by Hermann Schlagintweit, 1855[34]
Sunset on Kangchenjunga, 1905[35]
South face of Kangchenjunga seen from Goecha La, Sikkim at 4,940 m (16,210 ft)
Kangchenjunga seen from Darjeeling War Memorial
Kangchenjunga and surrounding peaks at sunset from ISS, December 2019

Early reconnaissances and attempts

[edit]

First ascent

[edit]
A sign board on the last traversable road to Kangchenjunga
First ascent reunion of 1990– front (left to right): Neil Mather, John Angelo Jackson, Charles Evans and Joe Brown, and rear (left to right): Tony Streather, Norman Hardie, George Band and Professor John Clegg

In 1955, Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on 25 May, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on 26 May.[44] The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon.[7] The team first made an attempt on the line which John Kempe's party had reconnoitered the previous year. Because of the difficulties on that line they turned to the Yalung Face, which had first been explored by Aleister Crowley's party in 1905. The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the southwest of the peak, and climbs the Yalung Face, which is 3,000 m (10,000 ft) high. The main feature of this face is the "Great Shelf", a large sloping plateau at around 7,500 m (24,600 ft), covered by a hanging glacier. The route is almost entirely on snow, glacier and one icefall; the summit ridge itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on 18 April, and everyone was back to base camp by 28 May.[45] Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinnon.[46]

Other notable ascents

[edit]
Kangchenjunga 3D animation

Despite improved climbing gear the fatality rate of climbers attempting to summit Kanchenjunga is high. Since the 1990s, more than 20% of people died while climbing Kanchenjunga's main peak.[64]

Tourism

[edit]
Kanchenjunga as seen from Gangtok, Sikkim

Because of its remote location in Nepal and the difficulty involved in accessing it from India, the Kangchenjunga region is not much explored by trekkers. It has, therefore, retained much of its pristine beauty. In Sikkim too, trekking into the Kangchenjunga region has just recently been permitted. The Goecha La trek is gaining popularity amongst tourists. It goes to the Goecha La Pass, located right in front of the huge southeast face of Kangchenjunga. Another trek to Green Lake Basin has recently[when?] been opened for trekking. This trek goes to the Northeast side of Kangchenjunga along the famous Zemu Glacier. The film Singalila in the Himalaya is a journey around Kangchenjunga.[citation needed]

Kangchenjunga sunrise from Jalpaiguri

In myth

[edit]
Five Treasures of Snow

The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity, called Dzö-nga[65] or "Kangchenjunga Demon", a type of yeti or rakshasa. A British geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the locals about, who referred to it as the "Kangchenjunga Demon".[66]

For generations, there have been legends recounted by the inhabitants of the areas surrounding Kanchenjunga, both in Sikkim and in Nepal, that there is a valley of immortality hidden on its slopes. These stories are well known to both the original inhabitants of the area, the Lepcha people and Limbu people, and those of the Tibetan Buddhist cultural tradition. In Tibetan, this valley is known as Beyul Demoshong. In 1962, a Tibetan Lama by the name of Tulshuk Lingpa led over 300 followers into the high snow slopes of Kanchenjunga, to ‘open the way’ to Beyul Demoshong. The story of this expedition is recounted in the 2011 book A Step Away from Paradise.[67]

Kangchenjunga seen from Tetulia, Panchagarh, Northern Bangladesh

In literature

[edit]
East face of Kangchenjunga, from near the Zemu Glacier, Sikkim

Further reading

[edit]
View of Kangchenjunga as seen from Darjeeling
North face of Kangchenjunga from Pang Pema, Nepal

The above Himalayan Journal references were all also reproduced in the "50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga" The Himalayan Club, Kolkata Section 2005.

See also

[edit]


References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b c d Carter, H. A. (1985). "Classification of the Himalaya" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. 27 (59): 109–141.
  2. ^ a b c d Jurgalski, E.; de Ferranti, J.; Maizlish, A. (2000–2005). "High Asia II – Himalaya of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and adjoining region of Tibet". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 16 May 2019.
  3. ^ "Peak Bagger:Himalaya, Central Nepal Himalaya, Khumbu, Ghurka Himal, Annapurna Himal, Xishapangma Area, Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya, Western Nepal Himalaya, Assam Himalaya, Punjab Himalaya, Bhutan Himalaya, Garwhal Himalaya, Ganesh Himal". Retrieved 22 October 2024.
  4. ^ a b Kukuczka, J. (1992). My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN 0340534850.
  5. ^ a b Machnik, A. (1987). "Kangchenjunga climbed in winter". Himalayan Journal. 43: 7–9.
  6. ^ a b c d e Freshfield, D. W. (1903). Round Kangchenjunga: a narrative of mountain travel and exploration. London: Edward Arnold.
  7. ^ a b Band, G. (1955). "Kanchenjunga Climbed". The Geographical Magazine. Vol. 28. pp. 422–438.
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  10. ^ De Schlagintweit, H.; de Schlagintweit, A.; de Schlagintweit, R. (1863). "IV. Names explained". Results of a Scientific Mission to India and High Asia, undertaken between the years MDCCCLIV and MDCCCLVIII by order of the court of Directors of the Honourable East India Company. Volume III. London: Brockhaus, Leipzig and Trübner & Co. p. 207.
  11. ^ Scheid, C. S. (2014). "Hidden land and changing landscape: Narratives about Mount Khangchendzonga among the Lepcha and the Lhopo". Journal of the Irish Society for the Academic Study of Religions. 1 (1): 66–89.
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  21. ^ Peakbagger.com (1987–2012). Kangbachen
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  40. ^ Isserman, M. & Weaver, S. (2008). Fallen Giants: a history of Himalayan mountaineering from the age of empire to the age of extremes. Devon: Duke & Company. pp. 61–63. ISBN 978-0-300-11501-7.
  41. ^ a b Bauer, P. (1955). Kangchenjunga Challenge. William Kimber, London.
  42. ^ Braham, T. H. (1955–1956). "Kangchenjunga Reconnaissance, 1954". The Himalayan Journal. 19. Archived from the original on 6 January 2014.
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